Showing posts with label install. Show all posts
Showing posts with label install. Show all posts

Tuesday

How to Install an Electric Iron and Ironing Board Holder

A hot iron sitting on an ironing board is an accident waiting to happen when there are small children running around your home. Install a device that may be used to store the iron and board safely away and also free up needed space.

Choose the best place for the iron and board to be stored. This may be in a closet or bathroom area, but it should be a room with a door that can be closed in order to prevent access to it by small children. It is also a good idea to store the iron and board in a low-traffic area that is not frequently accessed by guests.
 
Using an electronic stud finder, locate the left and right edges of a wooden stud inside your wall. Mark the edges lightly with a pencil so that you will know where the middle of the stud is. These marks should be made in close proximity to the position on the wall where you will mount the holder.
 

Position the plastic holder on the wall in the area where you would like it to be permanently mounted. Firmly hold the plastic holder with one hand and with your other hand, hang the ironing board on the holder to be sure the holder is positioned high enough for the board to clear the floor. If there is a door nearby, check it for clearance too. Remove the board from the holder and align the holder so that that center mounting holes are between the pencil lines that you made to mark the wooden stud. Mark these holes using your pencil. It is a good idea to also check the sides of the holder using a level. If the holder is level, the board will hang level when the installation is complete.

Remove the holder from the wall and drill small pilot holes for each mounting hole. The pilot holes should be just smaller than the screw that will occupy the hole. If any of the screws do not match up with the wooden stud, insert a wall anchor to provide extra support. Place the plastic holder back onto the wall and apply screws to each one using your Phillips screwdriver. Do not over tighten the screws!

Insert the iron and wrap the cord so that it fits underneath. Insert the board and inspect the installation from all sides. Pull on the board and make sure the holder doesn't budge.


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Thursday

How to Install Automatic Foundation Vents on Your Home

Do you have problems with moisture and mildew in the crawlspace under your home? Do you have a termite infestation? If so, installing automatic foundation vents may be an easy and relatively cheap preventative measure for both problems.

Most old metal foundation vents are equipped with a lever or slide switch which allows the homeowner to manually open and close the vents in response to changes in the temperature outside. Let's face it though, how many people remember to switch these vents at the appropriate times? Leaving the vents open year-round wastes energy and can lead to excess moisture under a home. This creates a perfect environment for mildew to grow and is also a welcome home for termites.

To remove an existing foundation vent, the cement around the vent needs to be chiseled away. Strap on your knee pads or position your stool in front of the vent to be replaced and use the hammer and either a chisel or a flathead screwdriver to tap on the cement around the existing vent. Most of it should crack and fall away. Be sure to only loosen the cement around the vent and try not to loosen any of the bricks.

If the existing foundation vent is made of metal, try to wedge the claw portion of the claw hammer behind one of the metal slats on the face of the vent. Now use some leverage to pry the vent out of the wall. Don't worry about damaging the vent. It should be discarded at the end of the project anyway. When the vent is removed, use the hammer and chisel or screwdriver to remove any excess cement in the rectangular opening left by the absent vent.

Installation may vary depending by the type of automatic vents that you purchase, but the current standard uses metal clips and also pointed screws which apply pressure to the bricks at each corner of the automatic vent to hold it in place. Position each clip and screw in place and then, working against the resistance caused by the metal clips, insert the automatic vent into the opening. Once it is flush with the existing brick wall, tighten each screw carefully.


That's it, the installation is complete. When the temperature drops to approximately 40 degrees F, the vent will close automatically using an internal metal coil. This same coil will cause the vent to reopen when the temperature returns to 70 degrees F. There are powered vents available which include a fan, but these simple automatic vents only use a metal coil and no power to operate.


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Wednesday

How to Install and Maintain Photoeye Sensors for In-bay Automatic Car Washes

If you own an automatic carwash, this article will help you to learn more about the function of your photoelectric sensors and how to maintain them in order to keep your wash running smoothly.

In-bay automatic car washes rely on sensors to control the car wash equipment. Without sensors, the wash computer would assume that every vehicle is the same length, height, and width. Applications for sensors include starting the wash, measuring vehicles, and controlling the opening and closing of doors. Photoelectric sensors have become a preferred method of detection due to their performance and ease of use. Proper installation and regular maintenance will ensure uninterrupted performance from the photoelectric sensors.

The first thing to consider when choosing a sensor for an automatic car wash is the type of application that the sensor will be used in. Photoelectric sensor systems typically consist of, at very least, an infrared transmitter, an infrared receiver, and in high-powered systems, an external amplifier. For the simple detection of a vehicle, the photo eyes are positioned on either side of the car wash. The transmitter photo eye emits an infrared beam of light across the bay that is detected by the receiver photo eye. When the infrared beam is interrupted by a vehicle, a signal is sent to the equipment to perform the desired application. This may be starting the equipment, measuring or profiling the vehicle, or simply opening and closing the doors. Usually, one sensor is mounted high, while the other is mounted low so that the sensors form a diagonal line to the ground. This causes the beam to pass through the area where the largest portion of the vehicle will pass and helps to reduce false signals. Mechanical treadle plates that are used to position the vehicle may be replaced by photoelectric sensing systems.

The body of the sensor should be durable and designed to withstand the harsh conditions of the wash. There are sensor bodies available in plastic, nickel-plated brass, and stainless-steel to meet the requirements of the car wash environment. A simple infrared sensor like the ones used in a residential garage door application are not designed to withstand the conditions in a car wash and should be avoided in this type of application because they lack the proper sealing. For the car wash environment select a sensor with an IP67 rating. This rating is used to inform the end-user that the sensor is sealed in a way that will not allow the internal circuits to be damaged by water spray or submersion. The range of the sensor is important for two reasons. It is much easier to mount the sensors in a place where they will not be hit if they have a long enough sensing distance. A strong infrared beam will also assist in penetrating the steam, mist, and soap that are present while the wash is running and will provide fewer false signals and the resulting down-time.

Required maintenance to photoelectric sensors is easy, and requires very little time. Check the alignment of the photo eyes using a length of string or wire long enough to pull in a line between the sensors. This line should be parallel with the sides of both sensors. If you are using a set of photoelectric sensors that uses an external amplifier, periodically check to be sure that the seal on the enclosure box is still intact and that no water has penetrated into the inside of the box.

If you have problems with the photoelectric controls, determine the nature of the problem. Are they giving an intermittent output that flickers? Do the sensors report an output all the time? Is it impossible to break the beam between the photo eyes? Once you determine the nature of the problem, it is then easier to isolate the cause. If there is a flickering output, check the alignment of the photo eyes. Next check to be sure the photoelectric system is turned high enough. (On amplified systems, this setting is located on the amplifier, inside the water-tight enclosure.) If both of these things appear normal, check for corrosion at any points where the cable has been cut and spliced. If you find corrosion, be sure to cut and reconnect the wires using a soldered connection and heat-shrink tubing. This will help seal out moisture from the connection. If you still see flickering from the output of the photo eyes, check to be sure all wires that should be grounded are connected to ground. The wires from the photoelectric controls should not share the same conduit as the wires from any motor controls.

If a constant output is the problem, check both photo eyes for obstructions. Be sure trash hasn't blown in front of the eyes and found a permanent home in the path of the beam. Alignment may also be an issue, but if they are out of alignment far enough to give a solid output signal, then this should be fairly obvious to the naked eye. Next, look closely at the face of the photo eyes. Check for visible cracks or bad abrasions. Even an IP67 sealed photo eye can be rendered useless if a large enough crack forms in the face of the sensor, thereby allowing moisture to breach the internal circuits of the photo eyes.

If it appears that the infrared beam between the eyes is impossible to break, the cause is one of several things. The first is simply that the intensity of the infrared beam is too strong and that it is literally not being blocked as the vehicle passes. Reflections on the wet walls contribute to this problem also. Try turning the strength of the system down a little. If this doesn't work, check the alignment of the photo eyes. Maybe the photo eyes see each other at an angle and when the vehicle passes through, the beam is not being broken at that angle.


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